4 recipes: The early taste of summer
What I'm eating these days.
It’s been a strange year. It started when a devastating earthquake hit south-eastern Turkey, the impact of which is hard to describe to people without a connection to the area. Much like the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, it changed our perception of time. For weeks, it felt like the earthquake had happened just the same morning. The night before it, on the other hand, felt like a lifetime ago.
Before long, though, we transitioned entirely into election mode, in what has been described as the most important poll in at least a generation, and the opposition’s first real chance to seize power after more than 20 years of Recep Tayiip Erdoğan at the helm. Though many were skeptical of the opposition’s choice of candidate, much of the opposition seemed all but certain of an emphatic win on 14 May, only to come crashing down as Mr. Erdoğan and his coalition partners comfortably retained both their parliamentary majority and, after a run-off last weekend, the presidency.
The weather has also played its part in making this year unusual. Winter was warmer than previous years, with the only true cold spell setting in at the worst possible time – on the eve of the earthquake. Spring, on the other hand, usually reliably sunny and comfortably warm before the excruciating (for a Norwegian, anyway) summer heat sets in, has been cloudy and comparatively cold. Tomorrow we’ll be June, but I still reach for my jacket when heading out the door. A warm-ish one, even, if I won’t be back home before sunset.
Nevertheless, the seasons come and go. Spring is an exciting time in the kitchen, with the greens kicking off new arrivals to the market after a long winter lull of carrots, potatoes and, well, more carrots. From here on until September, almost every week brings a new fruit or vegetable to the table. We watch, taste and discuss the developments as those early season bites get just better and better until they hit peak season, and we ride a wave of delicious produce at its very best until the time comes to preserve the last of the year’s bounty for the winter ahead.
Below, I’ve gathered a few things I like to cook at this time of year, with spring ingredients at their peak and the summery ones dipping their toes in the water, too. And I’ll be back in your inbox on Friday with a new recipe along the same theme – scroll all the way to the bottom for a preview.
With all best regards from Istanbul,
Vidar
Braised runner beans (Zeytinyağlı taze fasulye)
Don't get fooled by the unassuming looks. Vegetables cooked for a looong time in plenty of extra virgin olive oil is one of the true wonders of Aegean cuisine. This is one of the dishes I most look forward to making again at the beginning of every summer.
Greek pea and potato stew (Arakas lathera)
Versions of this Aegean spring stew are popular on both the Greek and Turkish sides of the waters. And no wonder! It’s delicious, filling and healthy. What more can you ask for?
Georgian aubergine rolls with walnuts (Badrizhan nigzvit)
Not only do they look spectacular, these walnut and pomegranate stuffed aubergine rolls is some of the very best to come out of Georgian cuisine.
Fried vegetables with tomato sauce (Şakşuka)
A staple of every Turkish household, and for good reason. In summer, few things are better than a vegetable fry-up with a simple tomato sauce. What’s more, it can be enjoyed at any time, from breakfast to lunch or as a side (or main!) for dinner.
🔜 Coming Friday: White bean, tomato & avocado salad
On Friday, I’ll share a new recipe with you, exclusive for newsletter subscribers and Substack readers. It’s one of those dishes I keep coming back to as we embark on tomato season. Inspired by the Turkish bean salad piyaz, it’s bright, summery and hits every note that I want it to hit at this time of year.
Your recipes are fantastic. Thank you.