Eastern Mediterranean summer foods

4 recipes that highlight simplicity and seasonality.

This is my ninth summer in Turkey, and my eight as someone who writes about food and regularly publish recipes. While I’m always exploring and trying new things, it’s safe to say I’ve found a few favourites that I keep coming back to, too. Both when it comes to ingredients and what to make with them.

Perhaps surprisingly to the ten years younger me, high on Ottolenghi, Moro and others that taught me to do unbelievable things with vegetables, it’s the simplest of foods that are on regular rotation in my kitchen. It’s true what they say: With peak season vegetables, the best thing to do with them is not very much at all. That’s not to say I don’t venture into more exotic flavour combinations from time to time (my spice cabinet proves otherwise). But there are good reasons for why the simplest of dishes are the ones that survive from one generation to the next, from one century to the another.

A case in point is what the Turks call zeytinyağlılar, literally translating as “[dishes] with olive oil”. I’ve talked about them before, and certainly will again, because they’re the backbone of my summer kitchen. This family of dishes come out of Aegean cuisine, and so will be familiar to those who know Greek cuisine as well (they call them lathera). It’s as simple as braising a seasonal vegetable (or two) until completely tender in plenty of extra virgin olive oil, a little chopped onion and – sometimes, but not always – a handful of tomatoes. Not only does this make them delicious, but they’re a blessing to have in stock when the sun is relentless and the last thing you want to do is eat or cook. Since they’re best eaten at room temperature, you must make them ahead. Throughout summer, I usually have one or two at the ready in the fridge at any time. Then all you need to whip up is a simple side of rice or toasted bread and a fresh salad, and you’ve got yourself a light dinner. A glass of rosé and a seat on the terrace is optional.

Another firm summer favourite of mine is vegetable fritters of any kind. Though I love a good meatball too, summer is a brilliant time to vary with lighter vegetable based ones. Courgette (zucchini) fritters are by far the most popular around here, but you can make fritters out of just about any vegetable. All you need is a little consideration in terms of flavouring. Some vegetables like herbs, others spices or cheese. The other day, I made Cretan tomato fritters based on a recipe in Mariana Leivaditaki’s Aegean¹, one of my favourite cookbooks of recent years. A simple combination of chopped tomatoes, oregano, mint and some flour to bind it all together. Delicious!

Below, I’ve gathered a handful of simple dishes that I keep coming back to. Recipes that have stood the test of time, both in the local cuisines and in my kitchen in Istanbul.

With warmest regards,

Vidar

Mücver (Turkish courgette/zucchini fritters)

Courgettes (zucchini) are one of my favourite summer vegetables. They need a transformation though, like in these fritters, one of the most treasured summer dishes of Turkish (as well as Greek) cuisine.

It’s one of the very few recipes of the region that can be a little tricky, but if you squeeze out as much water as you possible can, you should be fine. You can also add a little more flour if your batter looks very wet – but not too much, or the fritters will be heavy and bready rather than light and more-ish. Don’t worry if they still look a little wet when cooked, they’ll firm up as they cool down.

Barbunya pilaki (Turkish style borlotti beans)

The dish i make more than any other in summer, when fresh borlotti beans (cranberry beans) are available at the markets. Even though podded beans are now often available, I enjoy taking home a big bag of beans, podding them and then cooking them to perfection in this dish, which in Turkey is just referred to as “barbunya”, i.e. the name of the bean itself. Because after trying this dish, what else would you possibly want to use it for?

Turkish stuffed artichoke bottoms (Zeytinyağlı enginar)

The artichoke sellers are one of my favourite features of Turkish markets. The speed at which they convert a sturdy, hairy artichoke into a beautiful artichoke bottom, ready for use, is astonishing. I sometimes can’t help but wonder how many cuts they endured to get to this level. When you get hold of them, this is one of the best ways of enjoying artichoke bottoms.

Harissa chicken wings

After moving to Istanbul, we made the most of the barbecue on our little terrace. This isn’t a traditional recipe (and certainly not Turkish), but quickly became a repeat request at our barbecues. Goes brilliantly alongside just about any salads or mezes, or as part of a “mixed grill” style barbecue.

🔜 Coming Friday: Dolma (Stuffed vegetables with meat)

On Friday, I’ll share the recipe I use for the Turkish version of this most beloved of classics. Whether you opt for the traditional vessel of small green peppers, a halved bell pepper or a tomato, I’ve got you covered. The key is in the stuffing.

This recipe will be free and all subscribers will receive it.

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